Well First Off, this job was above the car so that is always exciting, my dream one day is to own a car lift just like the TV shows were I can raise the car up and stand up and work underneath the car, but until then it’s always nice not to have to jack up the car and go under, plus it saves a lot of time.
First raise the hood, then take off your air box covers, unlatch them and grab your flat head screw driver and loosen the o-rings from the intake, I have this whole process on my Crank Case Vent Valves Video Here. Remove your sensor and engine cover and set all this aside, you should have a great view of the engine and belts and pulleys now. Start by taking off your Serpentine Belt take your breaker bar with your Torx Bit size T55 and pull the breaker bar to the right to cause the Tensioner to move to the side so that you will have slack in the Serpentine Belt. Carefully remove the Serpentine Belt without getting your figures caught and set aside.
Next you can remove the Tensioner Bolt which is a 16mm socket and turn left to loosen it. The bolt removes very easily, then take off the Tensioner and put the new Tensioner back on with the old bolt. Notice the New Tensioner will have the pin set inside so you’ll need to let that pin out after you bolt it back in. Hand thread the bolt back in first then tighten down German strength or you can look up the torque specs online. Grab your pliers or your weapon of choice and take out the pin holding the Tensioner in place, I put pressure to the right with my breaker bar. With that done move over below the alternator and find your lower Pulley take your flat head screw driver and pop off the black cap that is covering the bolt. The bolt is a Torx Bit T50 loosen that up and remove the old one, your new one comes with a new bolt so use the new one and again hand thread the new bolt in first then tighten down German strength or get the exact torque specs online. Your almost done, now put the new Serpentine Belt back on, before you put the Serpentine Belt back on make sure there is no dirt on the pulley’s or in the groves of the pulleys. The writing on the Serpentine Belt can face either way but for some folks they like it perfect so whatever way you pulled the old belt off and the name brand writing on it was facing towards you, you can put it back on the same way if you like. Make sure that you have put the belt back on the exact same way around the pulley’s. If your still holding the Tensioner release the pressure on the Tensioner and then put everything back together and close the hood and go about your merry day. It won’t take you very long and the results you’ll love, great JOB. Unclear on project then Watch the Video Below.
It’s finally here, if you have been waiting for my How To Replace Your Guibo Joint Video. The Guibo Joint is also known as the Flex Disc or U-Joint or Universal Joint some even call it a bushing or Propeller Disc or Joint. It’s all the same thing, I did this whole process by myself with a borrowed 18 mm wrench from my pop that came in really handy (watch video below) Below I’ll list the tools you must need for this job and a few optional ones. The Guibo Joint itself isn’t that much you can find it for around 100-130 dollars depends on were you check. While your watching this video if some bolts are different then yours especially the rear drive shaft ones, mine are E-torx E12, or you can get away with a 3/8 wrench, (again watch video for full details) I believe 02-05 E65 E66 are different bolts. So here are some problems I ran into. I couldn’t get the drive shaft off of the rear, so I took the Guibo out with out dropping the drive shaft completely. Hanging the exhaust back on took some strength and another helper would have been nice but I was able to do it myself. So if you want to save probably at least 400-500 dollars on labor watch the video, hire your friend as a helper for free taco bell dinner and away you go.
If you have a friend or know someone that has a shop lift, oh wow that would save time on your back. I did get a great ab workout in being under the car and sitting up a lot:) The results are great, I now have clean shifting from 1-2 and 2-1 without the clunk or noise, now it doesn’t feel like someone just hit my bummer from the rear when I shift down from 2-1. Going from Park to Drive is smooth without the loud clunk, and it’s now smooth from drive to reverse. So all my shifting issues and noises went away, I’m very happy. Happy fixing.
This is a small issue compared to other problems but, if you do have a backseat interior light go out on you, here’s the latest video for how to solve that problem. The other option is, if you want to upgrade all your interior lights to bright white LED lights. This video will be for removal of backseat roof trim, so you can access the lighting system for your Dome light and your passenger left and right side reading lights. Watch the full video for removal and putting everything back together. I do recommend using a Auto Trim Removal Kit for this job to prevent scratching of your interior of your BMW E65 E66. Here’s a couple options for your LED bright White interior lights.
Thanks for watching Bmw e65 e66 rear dome reading light replacement video, and I’ll see you on the next job.